Hoofddorp, huh? Holland

We've just returned from dinner in a town called Hoofddorp. Isn't it just fun to say?

We've gotten very brave venturing out on the trains and buses to see the outskirts of Amsterdam. It's our last day of vacation and we certainly weren't going to just hang around the hotel.  It has been a rainy and rather gloomy day, but we just pulled out our umbrellas and pulled on the hoods to our jackets, and kept going.

We went to the town of Edam first, which was founded in 1357!  It is known for producing cheese, and that was obvious by the many cheese shops.  We had lunch there after wandering the narrow streets, looking in the shops and taking quick peeks ( by accident as we passed by) into private homes that looked cozy and cute.

Then we traveled to another more touristy town called Volendam, also founded in 1357- that's 660 years ago! Imagine!  This seaport town, known for its fishing industry, had an area along the water that looked like a Dutch version of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco, although much more quaint.

It was a fun last day to our amazing vacation.

Take the 300 Bus to Haarlem (Netherlands)

Sorry for borrowing a line from the Ella Fitzgerald song, "Take the A Train to Harlem," (New York.)

We arrived  'out of Africa' this morning, taking a red eye from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to Amsterdam.  We loved seeing Africa, but it is great being back in a 'first world' country.  It's the little things, like being able to use tap water to brush your teeth, and actually drink the water too!

After a couple hour nap - since we hardly slept on the plane- we went by bus to a town called Haarlem- about 30 minutes from Amsterdam.  It's where the colonists came from, who settled in Harlem, New York. We were impressed with the ease of taking trains and buses here.  There are designated bus lanes, so traffic is very orderly. Cars have their roads,  buses have their roads,  trains run on their tracks and  bikes and scooters have their pathways; and for that matter, so do the people.

Haarlem has a rich history dating back to medieval times, and the curving streets with buildings dating back to that period, were fun to explore.  We toured St. Bavo Church which was begun in 1370.  The entire floor consisted of 1,500 gravestones, ranging from the 1400s to the 1700s. The gigantic organ was actually played by Mozart and Handel!

Like Amsterdam, the city is build around a series of canal.  It's a beautiful place!

Zanzibar-Stone Town Part II

On our second day in Zanzibar we took a tour of Stone Town-what an exotic and different world! Thankfully we had a guide, otherwise we still may be trying to find our way out of the labyrinth of narrow streets.  It began in the 1500s as a trading post  by Portugal,  and over the centuries has been lived in and controlled by India, Arabia, and England.  So all these countries put their stamp on the architectural styles in the town.  Nowadays, the town is still lived in by the local people, but has fallen into disrepair.  In many  alleyways are crisscrossing wires for electricity, and clothing hung out to dry.

We went to the market and seeing how they handled fish, chicken and beef would make me NOT want to eat any of it. It was a cacophony of noises- loud and crazy! They didn't bother trying to sell us any of their meats because we were clearly with a tour guide.

The other parts of the market sold all sorts of things, including spices, souvenirs, and clothing.  It was a very eye opening experience, and here they were not shy about, 'offering us the best price.'

The fish market. I'm sure you can imagine the smell!

A disgraceful part of Stone Town's history is that it was the largest slave trading market in the world.  We toured the museum and saw the conditions in which people lived.  Outside is a very moving display that kind of says it all. Here it is:

Off to Zanzibar -- Part I

Over the years, hearing about a place called Zanzibar conjured up a tropical far away and strange island.  I remember as a kid talking about trying to dig to China- which for me and my dorky friends meant digging a hole all the way through the earth and ending up on the other side. Well it turns out, without doing any digging, we have gotten to within 600 miles of being on the other side of the world! The actual spot is in the Indian Ocean, and not China!

Zanzibar, an island off of the coast of Tanzania- and part of that country- is actually made up of 54 islands, about 45 of them are only inhabited by wildlife. And as we have seen throughout Rwanda and Tanzania, Zanzibar is a study in contrasts  Many people live in poverty- dirt floor huts, small villages with no running water and a family goat or two- which isn't their pet!  Driving from the airport to the hotel, we kept looking at each other, a bit nervous about whether there was actually a nice hotel at the end of the road.

Tanzania is 93% Muslim, so the most of the men and women dress in traditional clothing.  It is so hot and humid that I can't imagine living under all those layers of fabric.

Then, we finally arrived, and wow, what a place Rob found! Winnie gave us these four days as an anniversary present and it has been fantastic! The Melia Zanzibar is the fanciest place I've ever been! The service is over the top! And the pools, ocean, grounds and the food are out of this world.  We chose the "all inclusive " package so all the meals and  drinks are included.

Each night is a themed buffet, from Indian, to a barbecue on the beach, to Mediterranean to Arabian style food.

The Indian food buffet! Amazing!

This was the barbecue night on the beach.  It was so fancy! It seemed like we were crashing a Hollywood wedding reception.  They sat us at communal tables, and we got to know a couple from Israel, and a couple from Germany.  Thankfully they all spoke perfect English!

This is the Gabi Beach restaurant- also part of the hotel.  We watched fishermen bring in their catch as we had beers and pizza and tropical salads! Pinch me, am I dreaming!? 

Tanzania- Lake Manyara Day IV

Lake Manyara is an oasis of greenery in a dry, arid climate.  The lake is home to tens of thousands of birds, and believe me, I think we saw every one of them.  At times the sky was filled with white wings moving in a kind of flow that they all seemed to understand.  Thankfully our truck had a cover because the reality was the ground was spotted with droppings and feathers that at times looked like snow.  Apparently the water table is close to the surface creating this jungle affect.  Besides the birds, this is where many species of monkeys and baboons live.  (I'm tempted to make a wisecrack about traveling with a couple of baboons, but I won't.)

The Maasai People of Tanzania

As we drove through Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, we saw small villages dotting the hillside.  Just like something you'd see in a movie, there were small huts, some with thatched roofs, some shaped in small rounded mud domes.  These huts formed a circle and their village.  Our guide told us these were Maasai villages, and these people continue to lead very traditional and primative lives.  This tribe fascinated me because, being the New Yorker that I am, I was cynical.  Could this really be real? Come on!

The answer is YES. However they have figured out a way to make extra money by allowing tourists to visit and learn about their lifestyle. They also raise goats and cows.  So, once again, a picture is worth a thousand words-

Their welcome dance.

 Men and women dance separately from each other.

This is inside a hut- made from sticks, hay and cow dung! This man has two wives and four children.
I found it all very interesting, and weird too!

Tanzania The Serengeti DayIII Part 2

One of the most extraordinary experiences - among many extraordinary experiences - was when we got settled into our camp on the Serengeti. It was about 4:00 in the afternoon and for the past 10 hours we had seen elephants, lions, zebras, giraffes, wildebeests, ostriches, gazelles, impalas, hippos, cheetahs,  hyenas, and an assortment of birds, and lizards.  I had taken hundreds of photos, and we had been jostled around, peering out at all the wildlife.

We had all had showers and felt renewed.  The front of our tent had a patio with comfortable chairs and a table.  We were told to use the walked-talkie when we were ready for drinks.  Our tent was number 5 and we were a good distance from the camp dining room and lounge.

We called for three gin and tonics and sat watching the show in front of us. Passing within viewing distance were elephants, a lion, and giraffes.  Our drinks arrive on a nice tray from a waiter with a white coat.  As we made a toast, we realized that this was one extraordinary moment! How often can you say you're having cocktails on the Serengeti?

That night, after dinner, each group had to be escorted back to their tent by a guard.  And, it was a good thing. Right in front of us in the path was a hyena!   Then the second most extraordinary event of the evening presented itself.  We stood out in front of our tent and gazed at the night sky.  The Milky Way was right overhead and the southern cross was easily seen.  I don't think any of us had ever see stars so bright and a night so dark.

Tanzania-The Serengeti Day III Part 1

We got on the road early in the morning. It was still chilly, and a bit unnerving to open up our tent flap and see the Maasai guard standing on the path with his spear and bright cloak.  Today would be the day we would be going to the Serengeti.  The day quickly warmed up, but the wind was very strong causing dust to swirl and that fine grit to get into everything.

We traveled for a few miles before seeing any animals.  Then almost as if some switch was flipped, animals were everywhere.

Sitting in the shade of a large tree were two lions, a male  and female.  As Rob stuck his head out the top of the truck, the male let out a deep and loud roar!

Near a creek we came upon a large family of elephants.  They were  probably 50 of them, and many mommies and babies. It is so quiet on the Serengeti that when the driver turned off the engine we could hear the 'trumpeting ' sound they make and their chewing as they ripped leaves off trees. It was breathtaking.

 And the zebra! Wow! They travel in large herds. I always thought that their coloring would be too distinct to allow any camouflage, but surprisingly they do blend in!

Ngorongoro Crater Part 2

We've all watched documentaries on Africa. And we all understand the importance of protecting wildlife, and conserving natural resources. But not until watching these amazing animals just living their lives in their natural habitat, did all that ideology really sink in with me.  Allowing people from around the world to see them, yet leave them alone, helps to continue their protection.  I was truly humbled.

 The giraffes just peacefully moved about- so wonderful to see.

For much of the day we stood looking out from the top of the truck.

 Those aren't rocks, but a big family of hippos.

Wildebeests are everywhere!

After a hot lunch that included wine, and  a full day of oohing and ahhing, we started to head to our camp right inside the Crater. Most of the land was arid and dry, but then we drove into a large grove of trees and we could not believe the sweet beautiful smell.  Our guide told us it was a plant called kakweed.  Even dry, the scent from it was unbelievable.

We pulled into our camp and was greeted by a full staff of people, headed by the Camp Manager, whose name was Goodluck- really!  One person handed us a warm wet towels for our faces and hands, and it was only when I looked at the towel and saw how dirty it was, did I realize that I was covered in dust. They had to prepare the hot water for our showers, and boy did those feel good!

 This is the camp "lobby" and dining room.


 Our tent was cozy and was complete with showers, sinks, and a toilet. I guess you'd call this "glamping" Africa style.

This is our tent from the outside.  When night fell, the weather was very cold, which was such a contrast to the hot day.  The food was good and so were the beers and glasses of wine.

We ended our night around a Ngorongoro TV, as they called it.  That night there was a group from Virginia and another from North Carolina. 

Tanzania Safari-The Ngorongoro Crater Day II

Our first day on the safari actually began in The Ngorongoro National Park.  About 100 miles from Asusha, we turned off onto a dirt road and spent the next three days bumping and pitching through one of the most amazing places I've ever seen- even if I might need a chiropractor when I get home.

Three million years ago a volcano exploded, which is now the world's largest caldera.  Living freely, as animals should, we saw four of the 'big five'- elephants, lions, cheetahs, and water buffalo.  (We didn't see rhino.) It addition, we saw so many  other animals that  I was constantly popping my head out of the top of the vehicle yelling, "Wow!"

The name Ngoragora is a Maasai word for the sound a cowbell makes! This native tribe still runs their cattle through the park, which originally belonged to them.

 On our first day, I took most of my photos on my camera, and not my IPhone, which is how I'm able to post these photos today from Zanzibar.  I'm only able to use  IPhone photos at the moment. So for now-----

Zebras running in groups.

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The Wildebeests are are called "spare parts animals' because they look like they have the ears of a gazelle, the body of a cow, the legs of a zebra, the horns of a water buffalo, and the face of a baboon.  They say it was the last animal God made because He was out of original ideas.  They also are apparently not very bright!

As we came down into the Crater itself, it seemed that we had gone back in time to a more primitive world where animals ran free.  A giant bull elephant stood among baboons, wildebeests, and gazelles.
Check out the video below!

Here we are standing on top of the Crater.

Tanzania- Arusha - Day I

First of all, they don't pronounce it "Tan-Zah-NÉE- ah" the way we do.  If you want to pronounce it correctly, say "Tahn-ZAHN-yah."

We arrived at the Kilimanjaro Airport and met our guide.  The airport was quite small and we exited our plane on the tarmac.  With a quick check of our 'yellow cards'- the document that tells the Tanzanian government that we've had our yellow fever and typhoid shots- we got in line for our visas ($100 each,) and then the power went out!  So we got paper documents that I hope will work.

Our guide for the next four days was outside waiting for us.  His name is Pius.  And again, it's not pronounced like you'd think- not like Pope Pius, but "Pewsh."  He has been our constant companion while in Tanzania, and he has had so much to tell us about the animals, plants and all sorts of random facts.  He is from Arusha and his wife is named Veronica, like me.  Besides speaking English, he also speaks French, Swahili and his native tribe's language- something that sounded like Lawsha.  

This is Rob and Chris with Pius at the entry gates to the Ngorongoro Crater.

He took our baggage into a huge Safari vehicle- just like you'd imagine needing in rural Africa.  The company's name is "Soul of Tanzania," pretty cool name, huh?  We drove for quite a while to our first night's accommodations called The African Tulip in Arusha.  If the underprivileged parts of Rwanda were hard to believe, Arusha and the towns/villages leading up to it, were much worse.  Poor run down clusters of houses, that at one time had been freshly painted, were now dusty and worn from use.  No sidewalks, just dirt roads everywhere, and plastic trash in the weeds.  It made me wonder if they even know about recycling.

Here is the vehicle we've been practically living in each day. It was fun to ride with our heads popping out the top.

In Arusha there is a clock tower that is supposed to be the exact midway point between Cairo to the north and Capetown to the south.  That, in my opinion was the only thing interesting about Asusha.  Traffic is lawless, and crazy, and horns honk, and people hang out of cars, buses and the round-abouts are insane. We settled into our hotel for the rest of the day, which in the midst of this craziness was a quiet and pretty place, with a pool and we had a very nice room. Our safari adventure begins tomorrow!!!

 

The Arusha clock tower.

Our room at the African Tulip Hotel.

Muzugus Are Us

The past two days have been an eye opener for me.  Muzugus are white people, by the way! Little kids along the roads see us and yell, "Hello Muzugo!"  The contrast between the poor and the privileged is very stark. The inequalities are very shocking.   Chris has shown us an Africa few westerners ever see.  Without sounding politically incorrect, we were the only white people I saw today.

We went to a resort last night called Lake Kivu Serena which reminded me a lot of Hawaii.  Lush tropical plants, nice food, a full bar- and may I say the first gin and tonic I had out since arriving here.  It was like being back in civilization again.

After leaving the resort, we went to the border with the DRC- the Democratic Republic of the Congo-- and there is nothing democratic about it.  It is a lawless no man's land, that the US government recommends Americans not enter.  We did not go in, but we were within a few hundred yards of it. Seeing the military police with AK 47s was unnerving to say the least. No tour buses go here!!

 Then traveling back through villages where people live without running water and electricity was shocking. Each village has a central area with stucco buildings that are brightly colored because the local companies pay them to paint them in their colors. So all you see are bright yellows of the Skol beer brand, bright royal blues of Tigo a mobile phone provider. The colors the women wear are exceptionally bright and beautiful. The homes outside the village are tiled roofed with  local-adobe  bricks walls. No sidewalks, just dirt.

Tonight we are back in Kigali having drinks on Chris's patio, and going to a Trivial Night where many "ex-pats" hang out.  This is ALL so amazing!!!

Rwanda is a rich farming country. If you look closely at the hillside you can see terraced plots of land. They grow everything!

A typical village in rural Rwanda.  Everyone has cell phones.  Notice the woman carrying her child on her back on the right side.

The resort we stayed at last night! What a contrast!

A woman in a rural village.

A Rwandan couple walking along the main road. The cars and buses whiz by, and everyone seems unfazed.  

This is a pretty typical house. Notice their crops grown out front. I was told the broad leaved plants are tobacco.